Who are you calling a Curry Fish Head?
I didn’t stay in last night and watch Night At The Museum. Instead, I went out to explore and to get something to eat. Foraging, if you will.
Remember that scene in Lost In Translation where Scarlett Johansson goes out walking through the streets of Tokyo alone, just sort of quietly drifting through this alien environment? This should jog your memory, although I don’t remember her turning to camera and smiling at any point:
Anyway, that’s the LiT moment I had last night.
Just 100 yards from the hotel, there’s a tarmaced area which houses a whole load of food stalls - or ‘food hawkers’, as they’re known. I’d been down to see this place a couple of times before: the first time, at around 5pm I think, when it was pretty quiet; and then again one lunchtime, when it was very quiet. Because they were all closed.
So, realising that the best time to go to this place was probably the evening, I went down there last night. And this was the scene that greeted me:
It was unbelivable. Absolutely rammed with hundreds and hundreds of people, all eating out (or eyeing me suspiciously. I can see you, woman in red!). It was part funfair, part beer garden minus the beer and plus lots of food. Clearly this is what Malaysians - or at least Penangites - do for dinner: they go out to eat with friends, family or presumably work colleagues at one of these street food places, gathering together round rickety old tables on little plastic chairs (the people, not the tables).
The choice of food was similarly incredible - although I really need to revisit this place with someone who can actually tell me what most of the dishes consist of. Because, as the sign below proves, a translation into the roman alphabet doesn’t help much if you still don’t know what ‘Koay Teow Th’ng’ means in the first place:
That said, some stalls were more obvious:
Thoroughly confused by what I could and couldn’t eat, I ended up by opting for what looked like stir-fried noodles with prawn, being made fresh in a giant wok by a man who looked about 80. Or was that a giant man with a wok which looked about 80? Either way, it tasted amazing and looked like this (foreground only. I’m not a pig):
Looking for a soft drink to wash it down with, I was intrigued by this sign:
And the further explanation in this sign:
Yes, salt plus fat may equal flavour, but sugar plus lime equals… no, not Sprite, but ‘Sugar Cane Special’! Which is made by following the method below.
Step 1: Cut a hole in the box. Chop your sugar cane:
Step 2: Put it in your slicer-masher-blender-thingummy:
Step 3: Pull out the mashed-up sugar cane from the machine:
Step 4: Repeat steps 1 and 2 until enough of this mixture is produced:
Step 5: Sieve this mixture and add freshly squeezed limes and ice (step unfortunately out of shot).
Step 6a: Drink whilst wandering around, Scarlett Johansson-like, through the crowds. (Optional Step 6b: Photograph own hand):
There are more pictures from my night out eating prawns and drinking pure sugar here on Flickr. I walked the entire length of Gurney Drive and beyond into Georgetown, where I ended up watching a fantastically cheesy covers band for a short while (I think I left after ‘Smooth Operator’) before taking a taxi back - through the window of which I took this shot…
…which is, of course, my favourite of the whole night.
February 11th, 2008 at 7.27pm
I am really envious actually. Not just because of the strangeness of the place but by the fact that you are doing it on your own, finding it all on your own, having your own thoughts about it rather than discussing and comparing and arriving at a consensus description of an individual experience. Maybe that’s not how you perceive it, but it comes across as a very positive and happy thing.
And Famous Curry Fish Head is a great name for a jazz trio
February 11th, 2008 at 7.54pm
I’d not thought about it in those terms… but yes, it’s kind of strange; and the first time I’ve done anything like this. although I’m certainly the sort of person who can happily go to the cinema by herself, say, or wander the streets of London alone. I don’t feel a need to share every experience. I guess this is just the extreme form of living that life!
that said, there have certainly been many moments, last night included, that I’ve wished for one person especially to be there, because I know they would get a kick out of what I’m seeing and experiencing. although last night I realised that you miss someone more not when your eyes and ears are full of new, interesting stimuli, but when you’re just walking along a boring road alone, say, and you wish they were alongside you, talking with you and making you laugh.
and I guess you could say I’m sharing my experiences by writing this blog…
February 12th, 2008 at 1.16am
You should try the Patpong night market in Bangkok for some truly memorable sights..
February 12th, 2008 at 6.19pm
Thank god it’s the FAMOUS curry fish head. Fake curry fish head is always so disappointing.
February 12th, 2008 at 7.29pm
it’s true. you’re well advised to stay away from the Famous Curry Fish Head tributes that are around.
February 12th, 2008 at 9.40pm
There is one tribute band just called The Heads, but they aren’t all they’re cracked up to be either.
February 13th, 2008 at 1.13am
who are they are they a tribute to? The Faces?
February 13th, 2008 at 2.47am
no, FCFH (famous curry fish heads)
February 13th, 2008 at 2.51am
otherwise known as The Small (fishy) Faces
February 13th, 2008 at 8.44pm
All these photos are making me hungry and homesick for the food!!!
Koay teow (there are various spellings too) is a great flat wide noodle - like a smaller version of parpadelle. Delicious!
If you’re feeling more adventurous at the night market, you should check out the freshly made soya milk (or soya bean drink) - which is a sweet version and one of my favourite drinks!
Roti canai as well is delicious, but I’m not sure if they do a non-meat version.
Try all the kway (cakes) - the pineapple tarts are good!
Am loving reading your blog - it’s become a bit of a daily ritual
Mel
x
February 14th, 2008 at 1.39am
ooh thanks for all the info, Mel. and for reading! :-). x
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