Singapore fling
Monday, March 17th, 2008So, it’s farewell to Singapore (above, below). 24 hours in the country/city/island, courtesy of D’s uber-generous hospitality - thank you again, sir - and the verdict?
Well, as we were driving down the main shopping boulevard (and it was definitely a boulevard, not a street) last night, I suddenly put my finger on how to describe the place.
Singapore feels like The Truman Show.
I was looking through the car window at the shops, the trees, the people, the traffic moving down the streets, the Gap and HMV and Gucci signage and… well, it all looked normal. But then it hit me. Singapore feels more like the appearance of normality than normality itself.
Now, this could be down to the place being famously clean, and modern, and safe, and well-functioning. Because in fact, Singapore is more than just ‘normal’ - it’s too normal. It’s perfect (in a capitalist, developed way). Which would lead some to say that it ‘lacks soul’. But… no, it’s even more indefinable than that.
Singapore just doesn’t feel real.
It feels like a film set. No, scrub that. New York feels like a film set, and yet it’s also very real. No, Singapore doesn’t look and feel like a film or TV set. Singapore looks and feels like those little 3D models which architects/town-planners make of new shopping centres/airports/public spaces. Complete with little model cars and trees and people. Yes, that’s Singapore. Only slightly larger, of course.
(Btw, I’m writing this on the flight, and the cabin crew have just announced that drug-trafficking can result in capital punishment in Malaysia and can we return to our seats now, please.)
One final thought: Singapore is also a curious mixture of the liberal and illiberal.
The Singaporean government - which, like the Malaysian one, has been in power for decades, ever since independence - is socialist. And in many ways, Singapore is a fantastic example of a modern, socialist society in which everybody is housed (in fact, Singapore has the highest percentage of home-owners in the world), people are generally well-off, the public transport system is second-to-none and unemployment is very low. And yet I defy you to walk around a city that feels more capitalist - with the exception of Times Square in New York, perhaps - being, filled, as it is, with high-rise corporate headquarters, banks and shopping boulevards (there they are again).
And in terms of its values, Singapore’s liberal, socialist stance on certain things - prostitution is legal, housing is a right - contrasts jarringly with the country’s at best conservative, at worst, massively illiberal, side: state-owned media, regulated internet, the death penalty, and the criminalisation of homosexuality.
Mind you, even chewing gum is illegal in Singapore. See what I mean about place not really being normal?
































